Thoughts on the road – and the silly season

There is a chance to pause this morning, sitting in a hotel on the Algarve coast, listening to the waves on the beach down below and enjoying a coffee. The only thing of note is the latest iteration of the FIA’s Covid-19 Delegate notes (the fun we have), which come in the wake of Lance Stroll’s adventures in Germany, a fortnight ago, which have been covered elsewhere by people who have become slaves to the modern media machine.

Anyway, I have spent the last two days on the road to the Algarve, 2,100km according to the car. That is about 1,000 km a day, which is plenty enough… In racing terms it began early in the morning on Tuesday, passing the old Rouen Les Essarts circuit and the Circuit de l’Europe Kart track at Sotteville, where Pierre Gasly and Esteban Ocon cut their teeth, and continued from there to Le Mans, which needs no introduction to race fans. Rather than going on to Tours and Poitiers, I went south-west instead to Angers, La Rochelle and Rochefort. Why? Because I could… and I’ve done the other route too many times. I was soon at a place called Le Bailleul, where the road to La Flèche crosses the autoroute. This is of little overall import – unless you happen to know that it was at this remote spot that the winner of the first Monaco Grand Prix Willy Williams was parachuted into France, to work as a secret agent in World War II. A minor detail perhaps, but still a part of Grand Prix racing history (of sorts).

When I got to Angers I decided on a whim to deviate from my route for a few minutes to visit the village of Soucelles, a few miles to the north-east. This was the location of what they called “the English airport”, a vast prairie where the Royal Air Force used to land Lockheed Hudsons in the middle of the night to pick up and drop off secret agents, including future President Francois Mitterand and Grand Prix driver Robert Benoist, who was working with the aforementioned Willy Williams. It is an impressively big field…

After that it was on to south to Bordeaux and down through the vast Landes forest, once a swamp before the French decided to plant as many trees as possible to generate a bit of revenue. It is an area of 3,900 square miles and one can only imagine the number of trees. Before then, so they say, people used to walk around the marshes on stilts, to avoid getting wet feet. Strange, but true.

Over towards the coast is Mimizan, where Winston Churchill used to go to paint. I used to live down this way a long time ago and I remember flying in and out of Bordeaux and each year finding myself picking up luggage with the world championship surfers who would turn up to compete at Hossegor.

It was then through the Basque country and across the border into Spain, to San Sebastián (or Donostia, as they call it round here) where I stayed in a very elegant hotel called the Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra, where the Prince of Wales (no idea which one) used to stay with his mistress, when he wasn’t in Biarritz and where Mata Hari did some of her supposed espionage work. It was also where many of the Grand Prix drivers stayed when they came to race at San Sebastian. I decided to drive around a little to find what was left of the old road circuit, in an area where the development has been chaotic. There is a fair bit left, but only the path of the roads, as the placed is infested with motorways and roundabouts, but you can still find your way, more or less from Lasarte, where the circuit heads alongside the River Oria, with a cliff on one side and the river on the other. At Andoain it went through the town and then ran alongside the railway line up to Urnieta before skirting around Hernani. This was the home of Grand Prix racing in Spain from its opening in 1923 until 1935, after which the Spanish Civil War broke out and all racing stopped. Sadly it was never revived – although it would be impossible today with safety as it now is.

San Sebastian is a spectacular town if you ever get the chance to visit, with the delightful Bahia de La Concha at the centre. I suppose at one point it was a sort of Spanish version of Monaco, with a fancy casino (now the town hall) and some splendid Belle Epoque buildings, with a Basque twist.

The next morning I was on the road early and winding my way through the hills to the plains at Vitoria-Gasteiz. Last time I was in those parts was to visit a fabulous Formula 1 factory that had been built for the Epsilon Euskadi team – that never happened. It’s still there if anyone needs an F1 facility… From there it was on across Castille to Burgos, Vallodolid, Salamanca and Ciudad Rodrigo, with endless empty land and rain storms every few minutes. It was lunchtime by the time I got to the border at Fuentes de Oñoro, a bleak spot, and then I was off through some wild Portuguese country to Guarda.

Spain and Portugal have fantastic motorways but it seems like almost no-one uses them and those who do seem unable to obey any road sign. I did see one police car on the 375-mile run between the border and the Algarve, but I don’t think I saw any cars going under the speed limit…

I thought I was lost when I saw signs for Mação, but soon afterwards the sun came out and the afternoon was spent pootling down the A13 until the early evening. At times one might think oneself in Australia when there was eucalyptus growing, but then it would change to rolling brown hills with gnarled old oaks and endless umbrella pines, and you would swear you were in California.

Somewhere along the way I stopped at a service station and, thanks to the miracles of modern technology, logged into a press conference launching the Supercharge Championship, which is an electric series which will take place in cities. The crew behind it is impressive, many of them being ex-F1 types, including marketing guru Rob Armstrong, team boss Max Welti and technical director Willy Rampf. With that kind of pedigree it should do well.

Along the way I was busy thinking, which is one of the joys of long drives, and it struck me that the F1 driver market will probably be done and dusted quite quickly. I think we’ll see Mick Schumacher and Nikita Mazepin at Haas. I would argue that we will have the same drivers again at Alfa Romeo and Williams will probably have Sergio Perez and Nicholas Latifi. I won’t explain the logic (there is some) – but let’s see if that turns out to be right…

The key point to remember is that the F1 teams will get about half their usual money in 2021 because of the low revenues this year and thus some of them have to throw away normal racing logic and concentrate on survival. And that takes money…

And the line-ups mentioned provide the maximum in that respect. I would add that Perez might not replace George Russell at Williams if Mercedes agrees to come up with more cash to keep the Brit in place… but we will have to see. Otherwise he may have to sit out 2021 and wait for Valtteri Bottas to move on in 2022…

Is it speculation? No, there is plenty of inside help on this, but things are still a little fluid so we will have to see how it develops.

31 thoughts on “Thoughts on the road – and the silly season

  1. Joe, its looking increasingly likely that George Russell is going to lose his seat at Williams. Is there any possibility that he wil be on the grid next year, or are we looking at a new phase of pay-drivers coming through

  2. An insider and local indigenous can tell you, that speed limit is more endorsed at the cities and around. And in the north of the country (pt).
    They exist to be infringed. If you look around more curious you will see a lot of german machinery. This explains the temptation …. And the success of Mercedes.
    Changing drivers at the present, means, we are ‘thinking out the box’ to improve the show! As you already pointed a while ago, they need to go back to the basics. Otherwise, in a near future we will have an Engineers Championship (as we already have) and then a VR or even an AI Championship. Probably we will have a “cloud” racing competition. Puff!!!
    Don’t forget to start some archeological web site with racing places. I never saw nothing like this. And we deserve your knowledge.

  3. The part I really don’t get, though is being widely reported, is Giovinazzi staying at Alfa. I guess there’s logic in Kimi soldiering on for some continuity, but why are Ferrari keeping Gio there, someone they clearly don’t see as a future Ferrari driver, given they went after Sainz, over giving one of their other young guys, Ilott or Schwarzman, the seat?

    Also wonder what’s happened in the last 2 weeks to shift Schumi Jnr from stick on Alfa driver to Haas… Has there been some sort of falling out between Ferrari and Alfa?

  4. If Mercedes were to pay for Russell’s seat in Williams, then wouldn’t it be cheaper to give him Briton’s seat in Mercedes? Win-win for Russell, Perez and Mercedes’ pocket.
    Just kiddin’.

  5. An interesting route Joe and one I’ve partially travelled on different adventures over the years .

    I have seen the Landes Stiltmen at the Fete de Boeuf in the lovely city of Bazas (south of Bordeaux on the Pau road). Never could work out how they stay upright so high up!

    I’m looking forward to F1 at Algarve as it’s a great circuit – my only experience being from the passenger seat of a 4×4 being driven by an enthusiastic Clerk of the Course during a Stewards’ inspection!

    F1 cars will be a little different from that mind you!

    Enjoy

  6. Oh, say it ain’t so, Joe. Not George!

    I wonder if Checo will feel that he needs to swallow his pride to take the Williams drive (when it might appear that by replacing Russell rather than Latifi he’s now just a pay-to-play driver in the weakest team on the grid), or whether he might rather look to his home continent for a new challenge.

    It’s always sad when competitive drivers are ejected from F1 – I wouldn’t like to see either Russell or Perez missing from next year’s grid. Perhaps if neither Vettel nor Alonso shines next year then the prevailing wind may change.

  7. A journey for the ages, Joe. You are taking lemons and turning them into lemonade!
    Thanks for sharing. Dreary morning in the office here, but mentally I’m on the road with you,,,

    1. A Toyota Prius with 352,000km on the clock. Glamorous? No, Practical? Yes. And not bad for the poor planet…

      1. Sorry ! re the Prius not F1. How’s the car and more particularly the batteries taking it ? I’ve talked to a few urban taxi drivers who drive them but don’t like them ! What do you say ?

        1. The batteries are fine. Obviously I like it. And I don’t care if people think I should be in a flashy fast car.

  8. As I sit here trapped in my apartment-I’m high risk-on the COVID infested Left Coast of the USofA these travelogs take me back to the days when a long road trip was something I loved. Thanks.

  9. I often have to use the A13, but sadly it’s the one in East London into Essex and would NOT make for such an enjoyable travelogue. I wondered, do you have this wealth of knowledgeable tidbits already in the memory banks Joe, or do you need to research before posting?

    Re drivers. It would be a terrible shame for GR to miss out next season. I think he shows an awful lot of potential and losing a year’s personal development could be detrimental to him. A Russell/Perez pairing would seem to be much more mouth watering. I fear money talks though.

    1. Good question. I love to learn (and to teach) and so I have a brain filled with lots of trivia. Lots of quizzes in my youth and nearly 40 years of travelling the world. A lot of it I know, but quite often I’ll have questions myself and I will look things up. It’s part of the fun of travelling – and I do that whether I’m writing or not. You can never learn too much…

  10. Great travelogue Joe, almost like riding along.

    Silly season not so now, with someone at Haas having grown a pair.
    Any idea if FIA are going to the teams to fill a gap in their Covid testing/reporting regime….?

  11. This was great. San Sebastian is exactly as you describe it. I spent the summer there in 2002 and fell in love with it, a year before I discovered F1. Of course it had an old Grand Prix circuit! I had no idea. Life really does come full circle. Cheers David, Colorado, USA

  12. Love the free thinking of driving long distances and the way you write, Joe. Much more than just motor racing comes through, though I have always loved that too!

    Portimao circuit is fantastic. Hope that it suits F1 and the weekend is successful

  13. Fabulous again Joe, I have seen photographs of the stiltmen on the Landes, (not just for festivals). They were shepherds on this wide, flat swamp so the stilts allowed them to keep track of their flock, as well as their feet dry! they also had something similar to a shooting stick, a walking pole that doubled as a “seat” to rest on.

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